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Click on any of the logos for information on seeding, varieties and components of our mixes and blends.

We do not use Annual Ryegrass in our mixes and blends. Annual Ryegrass competes with desirable grasses and does nothing more than offer quick green that will not return the following season.

Consumer Resources

Mixing tall fescue species still best

Quality Matters

Seeding Date Calendar

Turfgrass Species

Over-seeding Older Lawns

Water Resources-University of Nebraska-Lincoln

This Could Change Everything!!!

We waited, and we are happy to announce that we have found three new varieties of turf type tall fescue that have proven track data in the National Turf Evaluation Trials for perfomance and quality. Coming soon, Super Turf LS, a blend of Lateral Spreading Turf Type Tall Fescues will be a welcome addition to our seed lineup and an undoubtedly better choice when it comes to turf type tall fescues that can spread.

What are "Junk" Mixes?

"Junk" mixes are mixes that contain cheaper grass species designed to lower the cost for seed supplier. More often than not the savings are not passed on to the consumer. These mixes are targeted to the the uneducated home owner, sold in big box stores and hardware centers.

The most obvious "Junk" mix will contain annual ryegrass, even in small amounts, annual Ryegrass really has no place in a home lawn other than giving quick green color, but other than that it will die in the fall. Annual ryegrass will compete and choke out the desirable grasses, is lighter in color and has a course texture to it.

Paying a little more up front will lower maintenance costs in the long run. Research new and improved varieties on the National Turf Evaluation Trial website, and aim for better performing grasses.

How often should I aerate?

Depending on whether your lawn is subject to traffic, or you have heavy clay soils, aerating twice a year and applying a soil modifier will greatly improve the soil structure.

Aeration:

• Improves drainage
• Gets oxygen to roots
• Helps to control thatch ( if done extensively, but verticutting is best )

What is thatch?

Decaying crowns and stems and tissues high in lignin, cellulose and hemicellulose creates thatch. It was widely thought that clippings contribute to thatch build-up, that has been found to the contrary. Made mostly of water, clippings quickly decay and return a small amount of nitrogen to the soil.

Is there an optimum thickness of thatch?

Thatch levels greater than 1 inch, can have negative affects such as:

• creating localized dry spots, because of the thatches ability to repel water
• inhibiting fertilizers and pesticides form reaching the soil
• providing a safe haven for insects and disease

Thatch levels of between .5 to 1 inch are beneficial because thatch....

• possesses good bacteria vital in pesticide decay
• has a filtering affect on water percolating through the ground
• creates a cushion, especially for athletic fields

Monitoring the thickness of thatch in your yard is just good sound turf management. Balancing inputs such as water and nutrients as well as selecting grasses that will not produce high levels of thatch are a good start to keeping thatch under control.

What are some ways to control thatch?

• Core aeration can be used to indirectly control thatch. By displacing a small amount of soil on top of the thatch layer can speed up the decaying process of the thatch.
• Vertical mowing, or verti-cutting is a direct method of removing thatch. Blades rotate to remove the thatch in great quantities. Overseeding after verti-cutting is recommended because of damage to the existing turf during verti-cutting.

How do I figure out how much seed I need?

Seeding rates are usually figured in terms of pounds per 1,000 square feet. For example, if you have 10,000 square to seed at a "new" seeding rate of 10 Lbs per 1,000 square feet,  then it would take 100 pounds to cover that area. An "over-seeding rate of 5 Lbs per 1,000 square feet would take 50 Lbs to cover a 10,000 square feet area.

When is the best time to seed my lawn?

Fall is the generally the optimal time to seed your lawn. This applies to cool season grasses (Kentucky Bluegrass, Turf Type Tall Fescue's and Perennial Ryegrass) that are most common in our area. Warm season grasses (Buffalograss, Zoygiagrass and Bermudagrass) need warmer soils to germinate.

Fall Seeding allows for less weed competition and less heat stress for the young seedlings. If good establishment can be achieved for the following then less pesticides would be potentially needed.

Is there a "Pre-emergent" that I can put on with new seed?

Yes there is, the brand name is called Tupersan with the active ingredient being Siduron. This is the only pre-emergent that can be safely applied to newly seeded grass to control annual weedy grasses and a few broadleaf weeds. Tupersan is found mostly with a fertilizer combination and is found in garden centers, and professional turf supply stores and of course United Seeds Inc. Please read and follow label directions!!

For post emergent weed control of newly seeded grasses, we recommend waiting until the new lawn has been mowed 2 to 3 times. Avoid spraying when the temperature is over 85 degrees or you can burn and stunt the grass.